Visita Iglesia in Cagayan

The Archdiocese of Tuguegarao has jurisdiction in the provinces of Batanes, Cagayan, Isabela and Nueva Vizcaya.

Saint Philomene church in Alcala, Cagayan

Every year, I embark on a journey to visit the heritage churches of the Philippines that I do per province. Since I had a chance of visiting the Cagayan Valley, without further ado, I planned my trip to the north in time for Lenten Season. Most old churches were made of bricks in Cagayan valley, due to the presence of clay used in various structures especially during Spanish colonial times. Hornos or Spanish brick ovens were widely used back then, to bake brick as building blocks of infrastructures like the heritage churches we see today. 

Here is my list of churches visited in the province of Cagayan:

1. Saint Peter Gonzales Thelmo Parish

Based on the marker outside the Aparri church, the original structure was erected near the banks of Cagayan River but was flooded and rebuilt. The present location had the old structure but due to World War II, it was razed to the ground. The church underwent massive renovation, where only the bell tower was left of what was originally built after the war.

2. Saint Hyacinth of Poland Parish

The new church stands a bit far from the river in Barangay Sapping. It is surrounded by a well-taken plaza, school grounds, and a bell tower dedicated to Sancta Maria, the oldest forged Catholic bell in the Far East.

The original church of Camalaniugan stood at the banks of Cagayan River. Due to floods and massive earthquake, it was left to ruins and today, it served as a park for the townsfolk.

3. Saint Dominic de Guzman Parish

Lal-lo, originally called Nueva Segovia has a long history of being the center of evangelization in Cagayan Valley. Evident is the Evangelization cross facing the Cagayan River. Dominicans administered the parishes of Nueva Segovia, same as the prosperous cities of Cebu, Manila and Naga. But in 1790, the Episcopal See was transferred to Vigan, leaving the parishes in ruins and fused to only one church that is seen today, and the name went back to Lal-lo.

The Evangelization Cross by Dominicans 

4. Saint Catherine of Alexandria Parish

The flagship church of Gattaran stands along the highway. Outer brick walls evidently shows that it was built during colonial times.

5. Saint Philomene Parish

What amazed me in Alcala church is the very wide full-brick façade. Though I didn’t have the chance to get inside, I admired its beauty with the adjacent lyceum and a beautiful manicured garden at its front. The elevated garden is perfect for afternoon stroll. Just sit on a bench and munch some milk candies and peanuts.

6. Saint James the Apostle Parish

Iguig is unique, not only because it has landmarks and Calvary Hills around it, but because it has authentic relic of the original cross where Christ was crucified. At high noon, I paid visit at each station of the cross starting from the right side of the façade, then adjacent structures form a loop until you get to the last station located at the church wing overlooking the Cagayan River.

The relic in a cross behind Mary's Statue. 

It was such a great sight and actually a great resting place for who want contemplation. The rolling gentle hills act as mini park for the townsfolk. By the time I visited the church, the altar was under renovation.

7. Saint Hyacinth Chapel

This is the oldest brick structure in Tuguegarao and currently administered by near St. Paul sisters.

8. Saint Peter Metropolitan Cathedral

This is the seat of Archdiocese of Tuguegarao, covering most parishes in the Cagayan Valley. The cathedral is the biggest in Cagayan. However, when I paid visit, I saw the façade painted from white to red, to my disappointment that the red bricks don’t complement the red paint being applied.

Cagayan River Route:
Aparri -> Camalaniugan -> Lal-lo -> Gattaran -> Alcala -> Iguig -> Tuguegarao City 

CAGAYAN: Food trip and pasalubong

As I travel in different provinces, food trip is very inseparable. Being curious on food delicacies each province can offer, I stumbled upon the so-called Pasalubong Map from www.choosephilippines.com. It is a very good infographic on what to expect when you splurge on a gastronomic adventure. But you have the option to add more.

Cagayan province delicacies highlighted.

Following my Cagayan route from the town of Aparri to Tuguegarao City, here are some of the delicacies the province has to offer:

1. Lal-lo's Milk Candy

While waiting for a van at Lal-lo's Centro bound to Gattaran, I saw a signage of milk candy just across the public market. There's a house which sells those sweet treats! At Php40, I bought a box of 12 pieces of candies. You can taste the carabao's milk and it's like the pastillas of Bulacan sans sugar. 

2. Alcala's Peanut

Across the municipal hall of Alcal at National Highway, there's a store selling peanut products. The signage says that it's an OTOP (One Town One Product) made by a cooperative of Alcala's women for their livelihood. A small pack or roasted peanuts cost Php30. It's a good thing to buy local products as this is my simple way of contributing to livelihood of cottage industries and home businesses.

3. Alcala's Milk Candy

You haven't gone to Cagayan especially in Alcala if you haven't tried their famous milk candy. A product of a family from Alcala, Teaño family sells their products at a house located at national highway, a bit far from town center. A pack of 12 candies costs Php40. The pure taste of carabao's milk makes you want to eat more of these sweet babies. Good thing they have a branch (actually a dental clinic of their family) that sells these candies at Lion's Road, Mandaluyong city across the integrated school.

4. Tuguegarao City's Pancit Batil Patung

One of the reasons why I wanted to go to Cagayan is to have a taste of their delectable noodle dish. After scouring the net, most of them rated Eva's Panciteria as the best in town, serving the noodle dish close to its original way of serving.

As our van from Iguig alighted at Brickstone mall, I flagged a traysi with Annafunan on its front since Eva's is at that barangay. Since it's a solo ride, I agreed to pay him Php60. I realized that it was a very long ride, passing the highway and entering subdivisions.

Finally, I got to visit the famous panciteria. It's a sunny afternoon and I'm so famished (extremely hungry) so I immediately entered and ordered the super special for Php80 and accompaniment: special halo-halo for Php40. I took the seat upstairs and patiently waited for my orders.

Yippee! My orders finally arrived. They are right! The serving is humongous! The pancit batil (mix) patung (topped with egg) has a cup of hot soup. Condiments of soy sauce, vinegar and calamansi are best with the pancit. Like eating lomi, I mixed it and poured on the top of pancit mountain. I have to say, this is my best brunch ever in Cagayan! 

Another suprise is their special halo-halo. Aside from the usual rice crispies and ube, what I thought unusual is a kind of yellow kakanin (like biko) in it. I don't know what they call it buit it tasted fine.

Pancit with hot egg soup

Special halo-halo at Php40

Surprise halo!

Thanks for a wonderful meal! Burp. :)

5. Tuguegarao City's Hopia Ibanag

Before I left Cagayan, I passed by the bakery that sells the famous hopia in town. Luckily, the store opened at 7 am and waited for the store woman to open its doors. I bought two boxes at Php100. A box contains 12 pieces of bite-sized pastries. The prominent aroma of garlic doesn't overpower the milk taste of hopia. Truly a delectable pasalubong that I shared to my parents when I got home in Tanay, Rizal. 

CAGAYAN: Smiling Land of Beauty

As I  wanted to visit all provinces in the Philippines where I've gone to Ilocos Region, I thought one day, "What if I visit the other side -  that is the eastern seaboard of Northern Luzon: the Cagayan Valley?".  Every time I ride on jeepney plying Lealtad-Quiapo route, I won't take my eyes on pink-colored buses and wondering when I'll ride on those. Finally, with enough courage to muster, I planned my first solo trip far north on a Lenten season, perfect for doing Visita Iglesia that I really like to do ever since.

The day finally came. I reserved a super deluxe bus ticket at GV Florida for Php1050 bound for Aparri, Cagayan (my first stop). Still, there are stopovers but a restroom inside will make you feel comfy somehow.

My bus going out of Manila

Bus ticket

 After long hours of sleeping and stopovers, I finally arrived at Aparri, Cagayan. 

Bus interior

Selfie before alighting at Aparri.

From the point where our bus stopped, I immediately walked towards the town center, crossing the bridge, then passing the public market and finally the quiet town plaza. In most towns I visited, the town hall, church and plaza are all adjacent. That's why the center of activities are all concentrated in these places.

Aparri is the town at the mouth of Rio Grande de Cagayan, the longest river of Northern Philippines. Being a quiet and a clean town, they were awarded once for this characteristic.

Saint Peter Gonzales Thelmo Parish, Kiosk and elaborate fountain at Public Plaza.
Background: Municipal Hall of Aparri

Centro - their term for poblacion or town center, where the town hall, plaza, and church are usually found.

I hopped to the next town going south of Aparri by riding on a multicab.

Next stop is the municipality of Camalaniugan. This is the place where you'll find the church ruins as well as the oldest church bell forged in the Philippines. The bell is currently mounted at the side of town's  Catholic church.

Saint Hyacinth of Poland Parish and Sancta Maria (oldest bell in Far East) in Brgy. SappingBackground: Municipal Hall of Camalaniugan at National Highway

Third Cagayan town on my list is the town of Lal-lo famous for their cabibi, a kind of shellfish found at the might Cagayan river. This town used to be a city called Ciudad de Nueva Segovia during Spanish colonial times. This was the center of evangelization with the likes of great cities such as Manila, Cebu, and Naga. But with the transfer of Episcopal see to Vigan, Ilocos sur on 1790, the city went back to a town and renamed Lal-lo up to this day.

Evangelization cross at riverbank, Lal-lo Municipal Park at national highway, Saint Dominic de Guzman ParishBackground: Municipal Hall of Lal-lo at adjacent park

Fourth on my list is the town of Gattaran. The flagship church is the Saint Catherine of Alexandria Parish  at Centro, near the national highway. 

Fifth town is Alcala, famous for its brick church and milk candies. 

Articles on visita iglesia and Cagayan foodtrip will be published on a separate posts.

On high noon, I reached the hilly town of Iguig. Famous for their Calvary Hills, the grounds near the church are dotted with historical landmarks such as the obelisk that used to be sailors' beacon of nearby river, the Spanish staircase ruins, and the well that used to be the water source during old times.

Staircase ruins

Obelisk at church's patio

Finally, I arrived at the capital city of Cagayan province, Tuguegarao City. As the regional center, it hosts several government offices, hospital, universities, banks and other facilities that cater to the its people. 

Under the scorching sun, I took a tricycle known to them as traysi going to the capitol. I managed to walk from the capitol to nearby city hall, crediting my energy after eating the delectable pancit at Eva's Panciteria.

Traysi - Cagayan valley term for tricycle, mode of transportation for short distances.

The capitol is painted white with classic details typical of a government building of American period.

However, the newly-constructed city hall is so huge. It feels like a mansion, one of the best city halls I've ever seen!

At the centro, the public market looks like this.

The Rizal statue at the town plaza.

The old town hall converted to provincial jail and now under renovation.

Paseo Reale, one of the malls in the Tuguegarao city center.

Time to take a rest at TripAdvisor's best rated pension house in the city: Pensione Joselina.

Calesa at night

This was my first time to check-in at a pension house solo. I felt awkward because I used to travel with my friends. As a solo backpacker, this is an achievement! Being solo has its perks and now, I'm learning. 

Sleeping on a fan room, I enjoyed watching local TV show and prepared my things for tomorrow's trip to my next province. (n_n)

For details of my Visita Iglesia and Foodtrip in Cagayan province, kindly click titles below:

Visita Iglesia in Cagayan

CAGAYAN: Food trip and pasalubong